Justin Dougan-LeBlanc’s unconventional journey to getting where he is today
When I first started researching Justin Dougan-LeBlanc, I expected to write a story about his unique work. But after learning more from him, I felt that the real work of art was the journey he found along the way. This is his story…
With each fashion season passing, we see a return to old styles combined with an introduction to new trends. It’s an industry that, while it loves change, can still find itself reverting to past concepts. This return to form represents an importance of conservative ideals that can leave out the voices of those who are marginalized.
Having been one of those voices, Justin Dougan-LeBlanc was inspired to create his own design label to encourage other disabled creators to express themselves through art.
Justin’s story began in North Carolina in 1986, where he was born deaf and had to learn how to communicate in his own way, which is how he found his love for art. Sign language and spoken language never painted the full picture like art did.
“I’ve always had an interest in the arts,” Dougan-LeBlanc said. “Communication is something that I really didn’t have access to growing up. So I had to communicate through other ways and art was one of those things that I was able to communicate through.”
In his freshman year of high school, he first felt the sting of prejudice from others towards his disability. He has vivid memories of wanting to apply to universities when his teacher told him, “College? You can’t — you’re deaf.”
While he didn’t let their ignorance overtake him, Justin and a few other deaf peers didn’t feel supported. So, they went to a different school that would help prepare them in their journey for higher education.
It was in that new school that Justin quickly became fond of math, but he didn’t know how to combine it with his other passion of art. Then, he discovered architecture. He loved measuring, taking calculations and coming up with design concepts.
Dougan-LeBlanc studied architecture at North Carolina State University, where he earned his bachelors. But, there was something missing in his work that he couldn’t quite put his finger on.
“I’m a tangible person, so I’m very tactile. I like to make with my hands, create things by hand, and there was a disconnection in architecture,” said Dougan-LeBlanc.
When he needed a change of scenery, Dougan-LeBlanc entered a fashion competition — without knowing how to sew. His focus was on exploring how technology could be worn.
With an expertise in laser cutting and 3D printing he created his first-ever collection, “The 7 Deadly Sins.” He created seven different garments, each representing a sin, constructed from plexiglass and materials that were hard-shelled so they could be molded to the body.
After winning the competition and getting recognition from renowned stage and screen costume designer William Ivey Long, Dougan-LeBlanc felt like there was more to explore in the fashion world.
This realization brought him to the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC), where he earned his master’s in fashion, body and garment. “I had no knowledge of fashion, but they decided to take the gamble with me, and I think it paid off,” Dougan-LeBlanc said.
Studying at SAIC, Justin found that he loved the fact that the faculty were curious. They didn’t know his vision, but he felt curiosity would bring him an opportunity to explore new concepts.
Dougan-LeBlanc explains his design process as “controlled chaos.” With there being many new possibilities to try out, his creative process goes everywhere. He likes to explore and experiment, which brings the chaos that he loves. The control comes from going into a project with an idea, but letting the final outcome be a surprise.
During this “chaotic” process, he looks for patterns in designs and begins to identify what meaning he wants others to see. Once he finds his answer, he infuses it with his knowledge of technology. With 3D printing and laser cutting, the clothes become more than materials thrown together.
“One of the advantages of merging technology with fashion is that it gives designers freedom to detach themselves from the making process,” Dougan-LeBlanc said. “It gives the ability to explore things that might not be as easy to do if you were to be creating it by hand…I want the garment to come alive.”
He also believes it’s important to remember the tactile part of designing. As humans, it’s very important to feel the material and be a part of the process. As Dougan-LeBlanc says: “You don’t want to lose the soul, and I think the soul can be found in the making.”
During his time at SAIC, Dougan-LeBlanc also had the opportunity to intern with famed artists like Nick Cave and Alexander McQueen. But even with those experiences, Dougan-LeBlanc still didn’t feel complete. Coming from a family of teachers, Dougan-LeBlanc knew that his end goal was always teaching, even if he had other career paths along the way.
Just after graduating from SAIC, he was offered a teaching position at his alma mater, North Carolina State University. Being where he grew up, the location was an ideal place that he enjoyed.
What was supposed to be a one-year contract turned into six years, allowing him to grow and refine his ability as a teacher. Dougan-LeBlanc describes himself like Nanny McPhee — he shows up when the school needs fixing, and once it’s all settled, he leaves.
After his first year at North Carolina State, Dougan-LeBlanc had no plans or next move until his mother-in-law handed him an application for a reality TV competition show called Project Runway. He sent in his application and, after a couple rounds of interviews, was officially cast on its 12th season.
After his first year at North Carolina State, Dougan-LeBlanc had no plans or next move until his mother-in-law handed him an application for a reality TV competition show called Project Runway. He sent in his application and, after a couple rounds of interviews, was officially cast on its 12th season.
Although he didn’t win in the end, directing a whole show during New York Fashion Week taught him a lot about the backstage process and how his lessons could be taught to other kids hopeful of one day creating their own show.
After his six years teaching in North Carolina, Dougan-LeBlanc returned to Chicago. He started working at Columbia College Chicago teaching Fashion Design and Installation. Like his work at North Carolina State, Dougan-LeBlanc strengthened the environment and helped develop the Made@Columbia Fashion Show.
The event is a showcase where students blend their fashion, creativity and innovation skills to create one-of-a-kind pieces.
Mikey Smith, a designer who worked with Dougan-LeBlanc for the production, felt that with his experience, the show benefited: “His experience really set a precedent, and because of his work in the industry and years of planning successful student fashion shows, we raised the bar, and under his continued guidance, I believe the standard of excellence will continue to rise,” Smith said.
Darrius Parker, another designer, shared the same sentiment as Mikey when talking about the impact Dougan-LeBlanc made. “Justin LeBlanc is honestly amazing. He has the utmost trust in us and supported our vision to see the show and our collection through,” Parker said. “I couldn’t have asked for someone else to be in charge of my program and I’m glad I was able to learn from him first-hand.”
Liv Byam was interviewed by Dougan-LeBlanc when she was a senior applying for the BFA program. “I admire his design work and his ability to create garments that speak to his story … that has rubbed off on all of his students,” Byam said. “The fashion show took a lot of hard work, and we definitely challenged him this year. We came with a vision, and he delivered … Beyond his expertise Justin has a great sense of humor and that man is stylish as hell.”
In terms of the future, Dougan-LeBlanc is pushing for a space where deaf people can finally be first: “There is no space for deaf people. So one of the biggest things that I’m doing now is creating deaf space. I want deaf people to come first in my space,” Dougan-LeBlanc said. “I’m creating deaf space first because I spent all my life being an afterthought. Even on Project Runway I was an afterthought — I decided that’s done.”
Header Image by Diego Yepez
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