What I learned in Ireland and my adjustment back to America

The first thing I noticed when I left the Dublin Airport for Cork was the green: the hills, the flag, the famous shamrock. I thought it was a rumor: how could a place be such a vibrant shade? The sun was shining, too, warming my face after experiencing the freezing cold Decembers of Cleveland and Chicago. I would soon learn it was sunny in Ireland far more than people typically said and the rain was often followed by rainbows. I was mesmerized by the rolling hills and the ancient castles scattered in the grassy countryside.  

Paddy’s Day in downtown Cork. Photo by Lauren Sheperd. 

I sat on the bus and chatted with a man who had children at University College Cork – the college I would be attending for the semester – and was struck by how kind he was. As we traveled through the counties that separate Dublin and Cork, he told me where the borders were, what the castles were and how to catch a rugby or Gaelic football game while in Cork. Outside of his kindness, I was amazed by how excited he was to have me in his country and to share his culture with me. This was common in all the people I interacted with in Ireland. 

When I got to Cork, the man ensured I made it to a cab that would take me to my student accommodation. Upon arrival, I immediately went out of my way to make friends: I knocked on my random roommate’s door not knowing we’d quickly become best friends. As me and my new friends trekked to Penney’s – the Irish extension of Primark and my future favorite store – to get bedsheets, towels and whatever else we might need, we talked about all the places we wanted to visit over the next few months, courses we were taking, and our hopes and dreams of running into Paul Mescal or Cillian Murphy while in Ireland. Over the next few months, I’d make friendships that would last far beyond study abroad, meet people from across the world, travel to 12 different countries and all around Ireland, and more. I didn’t expect to fall for Cork as intensely as I did, but here I am months later still dreaming of the daily rainbows, cobblestone streets and trad music. 

Downtown Cork City after a brief but brutal rainstorm. Photo by Lauren Sheperd. 

No one warns you about the reverse culture shock you feel when returning to the United States after living abroad for a significant period of time. When I returned from Cork, in June, there were elements of life in America that no longer made sense to me; it’s almost as if my memory had been wiped clean. I was hit with an instant wave of depression.

Some of the differences between Ireland and the U.S. are obvious, such as the accents, slang and architecture. But some are more subtle. While I miss cheaper and fresher groceries I would purchase directly from the farmers at the English Market in the city center, it’s these small, cultural differences that make the longing overwhelming.

Now, as I sit in my apartment working on this story between endless homework assignments, I dream of the Irish university system, which is completely different from the American one. This isn’t to say Irish school isn’t difficult – exam season is a completely different beast over there – but there is no required homework. This allowed me to have time to explore Cork City and Co. Cork and travel to new countries. 

Pub culture is also quite different (by pub culture I don’t mean drinking culture). Pubs in Ireland still capture what the name is short for: public houses. Instead of being a place just to drink – though there’s plenty of that – pubs in Ireland are a gathering place. It was hard to go to a pub and not run into someone you know or make new friends. 

Pubs also are places for people of all ages. Children would be there with their families during the day, and older folks would still come each night and dance with the college students. The music in the pubs is also instrumental to Irish culture. At one of my favorite pubs – Dweyer’s – which was in the center of  town, a live band would play every Saturday night until midnight at which point a DJ would step in. The band would play Irish classics which sounded similar to the American folk music they would also play. There was always a rendition of “Country Roads, Take Me Home” by John Denver.

I also miss seeing the Irish language everywhere. The Irish language – referred to as Irish – has been beaten down badly by colonization for centuries. According to an article published in The Irish Times in 2022, 1.9 million Irish people can speak the language – accounting for about 40% of the population. The language is beautiful, and prior to arriving, I didn’t know it would be on every street sign, spoken in public spaces and used in common, everyday sayings. For example, the word sláinte (pronounced slawn-che) means health and is used in the same way we would use “cheers!” while making a toast. 

What I miss most about Ireland, however, is the way of life. People seemed to move slower, observe more and appreciate the world around them, more than I have ever done in the United States. The best example I can think of for this was my Irish friend’s (maybe more than a friend, beside the point) horror when finding out that I often eat breakfast and drink my coffee while walking to class. He was concerned and a look of horror took over his face, questioning why I wouldn’t sit, relax and enjoy it in the morning. 

Brooke Stonefield and I at Killarney National Park in Co. Kerry. Photo by Lauren Sheperd. 

I responded to him saying that I often did not have time and was always in a hurry, especially back home. Shocked, he asked me what the joy in that was. Though he was not aware of it at the time or even now, this small conversation changed my way of thinking and my morning routine, and now I always commit to carving out time to sit down and enjoy breakfast. 

Because of this conversation and other experiences, I have slowed down my life, trying my best to enjoy the places I am used to in America as I did in Cork. I find myself admiring tourists now rather than being annoyed at them; they make me appreciate the incredible city I am fortunate enough to live in and often be miserable in. 

This isn’t to say there is no focus on careers and life can’t get stressful in Ireland; it absolutely can. However, the emphasis in life doesn’t seem to be on climbing a corporate ladder or egregious displays of wealth. Rather, money and time is spent traveling, enjoying time with friends and family, and connecting with nature. From my time in Ireland I learned to slow down, and I hope to carry this with me for the rest of my life.

I touched down in Cleveland at the end of May; the memories of an incredible semester, a three-week long backpacking trip with my best friend from high school through Eastern Europe, and a tumultuous situationship haunting all of my thoughts. I did not think it would be possible for me to be as happy as I was in Ireland ever again, especially in America. I still question this regularly. The aforementioned memories no longer haunt me, however. When I think of them, I smile (and sometimes cry) and use them to guide my day-to-day life back in the normalcy and routine of Chicago.

Ellie Shelton and I dance to trad music at the Cliffs of Moher in Co. Clare. Photo by Lauren Sheperd. 

Header by Alex Carrasquillo