Rhythmic Hispanic beats flow through the sunlight-drenched dining area, which transports customers from a chilly windy city to the warm, breezy effervescence of Costa Rica. 

The interior of Irazú. Photo by Lydia Schultz.

Couples and solo diners alike munch on the complimentary basket of tortilla chips, sip on fresh fruit smoothies and converse over plates of homemade food. 

The spacious, open patio embodies the official motto of the small Central American country – Pura Vida. 

Pura Vida, which has several meanings for Costa Ricans, literally translates to “pure life.” It advocates for a simple, relaxed life of enjoyment.  

The “Pura Vida” message displayed in the restaurant. Photo by Lydia Schultz.

Its message is represented by Irazú Chicago, the only Costa Rican restaurant in the Midwest, owned and run by Henry Cerdas. 

“I want you to feel like you’re in my beach home in Costa Rica,” the second-generation owner says. 

Cerdas, who took over the restaurant from his parents in 2006, has made it one of the most successful Latin American restaurants in Chicago. Irazú has been featured on prestigious restaurant guides like Time Out Chicago, Eater Chicago, and Infatuation Chicago and has over 1,500 reviews on Google with an average rating of 4.6 out of 5 stars. 

Customers from all demographics and cultures come to try Irazú’s traditional Costa Rican cuisine for the first time. 

Solo diner Connor said that his friend, who recommended the restaurant, advised him to order the Pepito: a French-pressed sandwich filled with sauteed onions, melted cheese and your choice of meat or veggies. 

“It was most definitely worth the trip from New York,” he says. 

Other customers, such as Reem, admit to coming to the restaurant multiple times, always coming back for the burrito. She claims it tastes just like the food she had during her trip to Costa Rica.  

A plate of traditional Costa Rican food and Irazú’s burrito. Photo by Lydia Schultz.

Smiles, one of the staff at Irazú, says that meeting people from all over the world is his favorite part of working at the restaurant. He tends to each one of the tables with heartfelt greetings, personalized recommendations and, of course, big smiles.

Smiles, a staff member at Irazú, shows off the popular oatmeal shakes. Photo by Lydia Schultz.

The dishes Smiles brings out fill the restaurant with piquant aromas of lovingly seasoned plates of rice, beans, and plantains — staple comfort foods of Costa Rica. 

Cerdas calls the cuisine a “humble art” because of its satisfying, high-quality simplicity.  

“Our food is not ‘Instagrammable,’” he laughs. “But it’s food made with love.” 

All of the dishes have stayed true to Henry’s mother’s original recipes from 1990. Any modifications or new creations must get her “stamp of approval,” according to Cerdas. 

The most important thing for the proud Irazú inheritor is that the quality of the dishes always matches or exceeds his mother’s food.

A bowl of fresh ceviche. Photo by Lydia Schultz.

“I had big shoes to fill,” Cerdas states. 

Cerdas never dreamed of being a restaurant owner; in fact, he wanted to be a news anchorman in high school. 

His father did not even want Cerdas to run Irazú — to him, wearing a tie equated to success. 

“But Dad,” Cerdas recalls telling his father, “I’m a t-shirt guy.” 

Cerdas insisted that he wanted to take over the restaurant after his parents were ready to give it up after 16 years. For him, it was an intuitive calling.

It was a Thursday night when Henry’s father finally handed Cerdas the restaurant keys after much persistence and uttered two words that would change his life: “Hasta aqui,” or we’re done. 

Irazú belonged to Cerdas.   

The vibrant mom-and-pop shop on Milwaukee Avenue has gone through several chapters since, evolving and growing under Cerdas’ dedication to preserving his mother’s American dream. 

Despite the hardships that immigrating, opening up a business and facing economic downfalls have imposed, Cerdas has managed to triumph through it all, making Irazú an intercultural bridge between the United States and Costa Rica. 

Being Chicago’s “Costa Rican ambassador” comes with serious responsibility — but one that Cerdas proudly accepts.   

One of the owner’s favorite things about his job is that the restaurant facilitates Chicagoans’ awareness of his country.  

A lot of people, Cerdas says, have no idea where Costa Rica (or Central America, for that matter) is located on a map.

Map of Central America. Photo courtesy of World History Encyclopedia.

Irazú allows Cerdas to promote the cuisine and culture, help customers plan their vacations to Costa Rica and talk about their experiences when they return. 

The restaurant has also become a cultural landmark for Costa Ricans visiting Chicago, taking photos and videos of themselves in front of Irazú.

Although it’s barely the size of West Virginia, Cerdas assures that its small community and geographical size are by no means a reflection of Costa Rica’s splendor. 

“I’ve traveled to over 30 countries in the world,” declares Cerdas. “Costa Rica is absolutely the most beautiful country I’ve ever been to.”    

Irazú paints a slice of this beauty through its pastel blue, beach-town-inspired interior, exceptional hospitality, and delicious meals. 

From starting as a run-down building off an unpromising corner of Bucktown to becoming a Northwest Chicago mainstay, Cerdas and his family’s legacy spread Costa Rica’s pura vida from worlds apart.  

Header by Mei Harter